In our township, it’s code that the insulation vapor barrier is cut 12″ from the high hats (cans).
We spent today doing this time consuming task–we have 70 high hats throughout the house.
I took the three photos of the vaulted ceiling in the new master bedroom. With the insulation neatly stapled, it sure looks cozy in there.
I spoke too soon when I published the post stating the insulation was finished. At the time, the insulation was placed in 85% of the bays and I was super excited. But at that point, John still had to go back and staple all the insulation to the bays–and he’s a perfectionist! He also has to cut around every outlet in the house and there are many. At the time, I didn’t realize we weren’t even close to being finished. After all, this is a one man job; we don’t have a crew of people.
Additionally, due to the gambrel angles in the vaulted living room and master bedroom ceiling, John had to contact Owens Corning and ask for advice concerning inherent idiosyncratic design features and how to properly insulate. They have been a big help answering our questions.
With so much to do and to think about when doing a top to bottom renovation along with new construction, there is always something, a small detail that is overlooked. Concealing wall-mounted flat screen TV cords was one thing we didn’t think about.
Fortunately, someone stopped by the house recently and asked us about the various locations for the flat screen TVs. He told us that we absolutely had to buy “In-wall TV Connection Kits” at Lowes. I’m so glad he saw the house before the drywall installation. I went to Lowes the next day, bought three kits (about $30 each), and John ran the 14-2 wire and RG6 coax cable to the approximate height where the flat screen TVs will be plugged into the wall. He stapled both wires to the stud in the selected bay with 2ft of extra wire coiled up.
The kit will be installed after drywall and painting is finished.
John marked the subfloor beneath the bay where the wires are located so when it comes time to cut the drywall to access the wires, they’ll easily be found.
We’ll have three wall-mounted flat screen TVs in the house. Above is the location at one end of the living room, near the kitchen.
In the master bedroom, the flat screen will be mounted just above the French doors.
And on the lower ground level, a third flat screen will be in my art studio/craft room, next to the mudroom.
The UPS Freight truck delivered eight boxes of Daltile’s Rittenouse Subway Tile earlier this week and two boxes of black & white hexagonal floor tile. With the arrival of the tile, we’re one step closer to having a functional bathroom.
After thoroughly researching tile, I approached Daltile and told them how I would like to use their USA-made tile in the guest bedroom bathroom (our first of three bathroom projects). I asked the company if they would be interested in sponsoring our bathroom renovation project. Daltile was generous in providing the wall and floor tile which I chose for the guest bath.
I decided on 3×6 semi-gloss Arctic White subway tile for the walls.
And I decided on 2″ hexagonal B&W mosaic floor tile which transports John back to one of the bathrooms in the house where he grew up–built in 1886. For me, whenever I see subway tile, it takes me to the London Underground.
First, John will install Durock and then the tiling project will begin; I can’t wait! Instead of the traditional offset pattern, I’m considering a Traditional Herringbone pattern for the subway tile walls or possibly Diagonal Herringbone. Either pattern adds personality to a basic white wall.
For anyone thinking about using colored subway tile, the sky’s the limit in the creative department when choosing fun and interesting patterns such as Crosshatch, Straight Herringbone, Running Bond and Diagonal Offset. Choose two different splashy colors or go bold and dramatic with black tile.
I took this photo at the Home Show featuring light grey grout with subway tile.
Grey grout with white tile was a big trend in 2015 and I think it’s going to continue.