Spacious & Bright

After the living room ceiling was primed, the walls were next…

John started rolling the east wall. Before applying primer, you have to meticulously go over all walls to ensure that none of the screw holes are concave. If they are, apply more spackle, and then sand. Then and only then, start priming.

You don’t want to start priming and have to stop to fix miscellaneous spackle touch-ups. Go over the room, stick small pieces of blue painter’s tape to identify spots that need extra sanding. If you don’t do this, you’ll forget where you added a spackle touch-up and you’ll prime an unsanded spot that will show immediately. It will then be difficult, with primer on the wall, to sand off.

In order to fix it, you’ll create more work/frustration and you might throw your hands up in the air and say, “I’m hiring a painter.”

To solve this issue before it even starts, be METICULOUS, and go over the walls by testing any concave drywall screw spots by running your hand over the spackled drywall.

In our case, John used a lot of screws in the drywall because it’s our house and he did the drywall installation. In many cases, when a professional drywall team comes in to hang drywall, they use nails in the field instead of screws. Nails are less expensive. The nails, of course, create nail pops–due to not being threaded. Screws do not create nail pops.

So, if any of you are planning on building an addition on your house. When it comes to hiring a drywall business, request that they use 1 1/4″ coarse-thread sheetrock screws. Purchase a 25 lb square container at Home Depot (the price is $50 + tax). Provide the screws for the drywall team. If they purchase the screws, they’ll mark it up substantially. If you don’t care about the mark-up in material, let them buy it.

For DIYers, in bathrooms, do not make the mistake of using these same screws. They will rust and deteriorate over time, and snap.

The must-have painting extension pole makes the job easier…

A solid image…

No need to prime where the fireplace is temporarily concealed beneath the drywall. Soon John will cut the drywall around the fireplace and reveal it.

Finished…

Time to roll the scaffolding to the other side of the room and start rolling the west wall…

The following night…

John did each wall in thirds. When he stopped for the first third, he “feathered” the wet edge to avoid sharp lines drying. Always keep a wet edge rolling a large wall.

Middle third…

Feathering second section…

Thinking about what color to choose for the primed walls…

Time for a new front door. This is the original door from 1954. (Looking down from the balcony.)

Yesterday morning (looking south from the balcony).

 

13 thoughts on “Spacious & Bright

  1. First time commenting ….but have loved every part of the journey you guys have been on with your house. Watching your perfectionist of a husband brings a fellow perfectionist emense joy😂
    Thank you for putting so much home remodeling knowledge out there for us to glean from, it’s very appreciated.

  2. Sue, these are such useful pics & advice, thanks for sharing them with us. Also, may I suggest when John is finished with this marvelous/amazing project, he become a teacher in a vocational/building trades school (for all ages)…specifically to teach the correct way of doing this type of work. John’s a jewel…!

    My son is a superintendent on big construction jobs and finding qualified workers in all the trades is a huge problem..not only the lack of experience & skills, but also the right attitudes for the job. There’s a huge need out there.

    P.S. My only concern: John, bone up on OSHA requirements, sir…”tippy toe on the top of the ladder is a no-no”.

  3. If you are interested in blues there is a color called “summer shower” #2136-60 by Benjamin Moore and the next shade is 2135-70. Looking forward to your choice. John’s painting job is gorgeous !!!

  4. Are you going to refinish the 1950s door – maybe turn it into a table! I am so excited to see how this all turns out. Been following you from the beginning and I am such a huge fan!

    1. Initially, I wanted a Dutch door. I think I blogged about it awhile ago and several people commented that it might not be a good idea because they’re not as energy efficient as other doors. However, I’m glad you brought it up because I might check into it again.

  5. I’m looking at those large expanses of wall and thinking, man that would be a great space to hang a huge art quilt. I’ll bet there are an abundance to choose from in your area. (whatever you do DON’T nail or staple them to the wall. I saw an interior decorator do this on TV and I almost reached through the screen to throttle her.)

      1. Since you shop a lot local, I wouldn’t be surprised if you found a quilt or a tapestry of some kind for those spaces.

        I make my own quilts. I have a large one covering almost the entire wall of my dining room. (I have 10 foot ceilings)

        I sew a large sleeve across the entire top. Then I use a wooden curtain rod (about the diameter of a closet rod) and two brackets, one on each side. No need for bracing in the middle. I’ve got a king size hanging this way. It hang out from the wall for circulation and high enough off the floor. Plus, it’s pretty easy to take down and launder if necessary. If you go this route, e-mail me about proper laundering of quilts. There is low sudsing detergent made specially for quilts. If it’s large, use a commercial washer and rinse twice. Dry flat. Lay it on a clean sheet outside out of direct sun if you can. If it’s vintage, better to contact a local expert. You don’t need to launder them at often if you occasionally take it down and shake out the dust. Hang it out of direct sun and away from heat sources. They’ll deteriorate the fabric.

        Another fun idea is to hang a kimono. They have beautiful ones, just like a work of art. You can hang the kimono and the obi on the same pole.

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