Now that most of the flooring is finished, John installed a few interior doors yesterday.
Since this is not a one person job I helped with the initial installation. At one point I thought I’d rather have a root canal than install doors–it is not easy.
We chose to do the smallest bedroom first.
- Nail hinged side of door to framing.
- Use shims as necessary to make sure the door frame is plumb.
- Make sure hinged side is close to plumb.
Here is the 1/8th-inch gap between the jamb and door on inside.
John added shims to the top to make sure it was plumb.
At this point, it’s a matter of adjusting the shims until it’s almost perfect (it’s never completely perfect, and of course, can be frustrating).
John used a Porter Cable finish nailer with 2 1/2″ finish nails (click here).
Next: Cut shims off with a utility knife. John’s favorite is Walboard which is NOT retractable (click here). He likes this type because the blade is longer than retractable knives.
We’re sort of at the final stretch, so I’m not going to be picky about which door handle style I choose for a dozen doors. At this point I just want it finished.
Due to budget, we chose in stock doors at Home Depot. It’s not like someone is going to walk in the house and open a door and say to themselves, “This isn’t a solid wood door.”
I remember in our previous house we only had to order two interior doors so we splurged on custom solid wood doors. At the time, we didn’t know to store them vertically. We stored them horizontally on the floor for about three months and they warped.
Installed and ready to be painted!
If you look to the right in the following photo, the framed out square on the upper level is in the smallest bedroom–it was an attic crawl space entrance.
The gutted 3 bedrooms, hall bath and hallway.
Standing in the 10’6″ x 8’9″ bedroom, the crawlspace entrance was above the left outlet. This is a cozy room and will be used as a home office.
The next project will be hanging doors in all the bedrooms and closets.
Baseboard will be added in each room too.
All walls are primed and ready for painting.
John will build a desk the length of the south wall with book shelves on the east wall.
With this style flooring there are about a dozen patterns that should be kept in the same course. By doing this, it appears as though each course is one continual 12′ or 16′ board. This takes extra time but worth it.
Lastly, John is now working in the hallway where the 3 original bedrooms, linen closet and hall bath all meet.
The top of the stairs in the hallway required prep work. John secured the 1×4 T&G sub floor with 2″ screws, where it meets the bullnose.
The hallway includes a small foyer that leads to the hall bath and the original attic staircase, which is now the staircase to the new master bedroom addition. The sub floor had a hole in it so John repaired it with scrap 3/4 wood.
Between three iPhones, one which is broken, I forgot I took photos of the hallway in the new addition on my work phone.
In the meantime, I planned to write a blog post on visiting Andy Wyeth’s art studio in Chadds Ford, PA, but unfortunately, the photos are on my broken phone.
Soon I’ll have the photos transferred to my new phone. Apple is sponsoring me with a new iPhoneX for my blog! I can’t wait to start using it!
Here are a few photos of the hallway in the new master bedroom wing taken on 12/26/17.
Stepping on the hallway landing…the staircase I climbed led to the attic in the original/old split level design; now it enters into the new wing.
Someone recently said to me “I like your UGG shoes.” I replied, “They’re not UGGS, they’re slippers from Lands’ End.” (Product provided to me for review.) I have to admit, I forgot they were slippers and I wore them out shopping.
The stairs going down lead to the other three bedrooms and hall bath.
We were so used to looking at a sub floor that it’s still hard to believe we have flooring. It’s true, having patience, is a virtue.